Wednesday, January 22, 2014

Felix goes to Hampi



HAMPI
Day #1: an early start.  A really early start.  Groggy and tired we got our stuff and waited for Ariel and Mariela to pick us up in their rickshaw.  We drove to the bus station and got on our bus.  The bus ride, a 9 hour long adventure, was boring as all hell, but we did get to see A LOT of India.  The countryside changed dramatically from forest to a dry and arid landscape.  When we FINALLY got off the bus, in Hospet, we had a few minutes to, no wait here we go again, we caught ANOTHER bus, this time only a half hour trip, to finally get to Hampi.  We got off the bus, and asked a Rickshaw driver to take us to the place we had booked, The Goan Corner.  He informed us that we had to cross the river that parted the main bustling bit of Hampi to the less populated side.  We got to the river and had a long discussion on whether to stay on the side we were on and find a new place, or cross the river and go to The Goan Corner.  We decided to head BACK into town and find a place there.  Ariel and I stayed in the rickshaw whilst the mothers went looking from place to place.  It turned out that they were all crap, and we decided to drive back to the river and cross it.  We did just that, taking the local “ferry” (a small dingy) across.  We walked up the hill on the other side of the river, through the small town, across a few rice paddies, and we finally arrived.  The Goan Corner was a very lovely place, surrounded on two sides by rice paddies, and a very nice view of the MILLIONS of rocky hills.  Ariel, being a climber, and Me, being a rockhopper, were delighted.  We sorted out our rooms, unpacked our stuff, and Ariel and I went exploring.  We climbed up, met people, checked out the bouldering spots, and enjoyed the view.  When we headed down, we had a well needed dinner, then we went back up on the rocks, this time with the mothers, to watch the Full Moon rise.  It was red/orange, and very beautiful.  When it was all over, we headed down to the soft beds and had some well-needed sleep.
Day #2:
The Lake: Before we set out to go to the lake, we had been told multiple times that we shouldn’t walk.  But Mum and Mariela decided to walk anyway.  “Oh its only 3 kilometres” they said.  We walked for about ten minutes when a rickshaw drove up to us, stopped, and asked us if we wanted to get in.  After some discussion, we hopped in the rickshaw and drove to the lake.
It wasn’t three kilometres. -.-
When we arrived there, we took a look at the lake.  It was an enormous mass of water, kilometres wide and long, surrounded by rocks and shrubbery.  On a lot of the rocks was written ‘no swimming crocodile inside.’  Well we didn’t see that one lonely crocodile.  There was a few groups of Indian guys in boats on the lake, and we saw a group of Indians/Westerners nearby jumping off a rock into the lake, and there was a nice little beach next to the rock.  We changed, and jumped into the cold, refreshing water.  After a few minutes, Mum and Mariela got out and sat on the rocks to dry.  Ariel and I went and sat with them when the  group of men that were in their boat came and sat on the surrounding rocks and simply stared at our two mothers.  After a few minutes, Mum decided she’d had enough of being stared at, so she told them to stop staring and piss off.  A few minutes later we left.  We caught the same Rickshaw to the Monkey Temple.
The Hanuman Temple: There was a long winding flight of steps leading up the side of the mountain.  We encountered lots of monkeys up the steps, and the view of the rocky landscape of Hampi and its surroundings extended with each step we took up.  When we finally arrived at the top, we kicked off our shoes, and went to have a look around.  There was the main temple building, a small structure that was locked, and not really that extravagant, and then the rest of the mountaintop was a concrete courtyard.  The view was fantastic.  Miles and miles of big rocky outcrops, rice paddies and coconut trees.  It felt like we were sitting on top of the world.  And you could see why it was nicknamed ‘The Monkey Temple,’ There was monkeys all over the place. Monkeys eating, sleeping, rooting, just doing all the monkeyish things imaginable.  Except flinging turds.  There were no airborne piles of faeces around thank god.  When we were done enjoying the view and the monkeys, we headed down again.  Halfway down the steps, we found a little path leading off from the main one.  We headed along, and found a little shrine.  Near the shrine was a group of Langurs.  I went forward to have a closer look, and after about thirty seconds, a little monkey detached from the group and starting screeching and baring its teeth at me, pacing back and forth between the main group and I.  After this monkey had been going off its nut for about two minutes, a much larger came out, and charged me, with its sharp little teeth and long legs and arms ready to pounce.  I kicked at it multiple times, trying to keep it at bay, while also concentrating on not crapping my pants.  This monkey looked bigger close up, okay. Then a little Indian boy ran out of the shrine and started yelling “Run Away! Run Away!”  So run away I did.  Very Quickly.  It turns out that as soon as I spun and ran, so did the monkey.  I made my way down the rest of the mountain a little shaken, and with one more story to tell.

The day after this, we made our way home. And the bus trip, this time 11 hours, didn't bear writing about. :)

Monday, January 20, 2014

Mysore 2014 - Indian yoga adventures with Felix

Two weeks after arriving in Mysore, we have worked out how to "drive" this blog site again. For this trip, we have decided that Felix would be the voice. Here are two things he wrote within the first few days of getting here.



Well, so far, this trip to India has been quite interesting.  We arrived at Gokulam, Mysore, at about 2am, unpacked our stuff, and went to sleep.  Well, maybe not sleep.  See, when we arrived, our bodies thought it was time to wake up.  So we dozed till about 7am local time, then got dressed and went down the road for our first cup of Chai in India.  Mum saw some yoga friends and we sat on the step of some building sipping away at our Chai.  When we left there we went straight to another CafĂ© were we had breakfast.  After a well-needed meal we came back to the house and rested till around midday when we left to go to lunch.  On the way down the street we encountered one of the common cows that roam the city.  I was expecting it to just let me pass, as I intended, but obviously this cow was having a bad day, and decided to take its anger out on me.  I copped a cow horn in the belly and a nice serving of cow slobber all over the left side of my body.  I didn’t know I could move as quickly as I did when I got out of the cows way.  I now have a fear of cows and won’t go in a ten metre radius of one.  After that unexpected turn of events we arrived at the restaurant where we were planning on having lunch, but it was shut.  Luckily, two of mums friends came past in a Rickshaw (kinda like a taxi) and told us they were going to lunch at a place just up the road so we went with them and had a nice lunch.  When that was finished we caught a rickshaw to the Shala (yoga place) and waited till we got in.  Sharath then spoke about breathing and yoga for an hour, then mum and I registered for classes then we went home, chilled, and went to bed.


And soon we were registered to practice yoga at our respective shalas (me with Sharath, Felix with Saraswati). Felix on practice:



PRACTICE #1
The original plan was that two of mum's friends would walk me to the Shala I was practising at.   When they didn’t show up, mum asked the gatekeeper of the main Shala to take me.  He said yes so I jumped on the back of his scooter and he drove me there, at a frighteningly fast speed.  So fast that I lost track of the way and had no idea how to get home.  I arrived at the shala, kicked my thongs off and went inside and waited for a spot.  When Saraswati called me in, I set up my mat and got to practice.  Saraswati and her assistant managed to push me into all the poses I have never been able to do properly, which left me sore the next day.  It didn’t really feel that different to me to be in a space with lots of other people as I was mainly just focused on myself.  After practice, I got myself a coconut and asked a fellow yogi if he knew the way back.  He showed me a faster route and I made a friend in the process.
 

Sunday, November 7, 2010

Last days of adventure

Our last day and a half was filled to the brim. We took the long way back from Petra to Amman. First we snorkelled in the Red Sea, 20km from the Saudi border and looking across the water towards Israel and Egypt. We had lunch in Wadi Rum, surrounded by red sand desert and strange sandstone cliffs. The next day we visited Jerash, a Roman city to rival Palmyra.

And then... it was time for the long trip home! We were definitely all looking forward to come back to our island paradise...

The Red Sea near Aqaba, where we had a quick snorkel. The reef was stunning! Next time the underwater camera housing will have to fit somewhere...
Midday in Wadi Rum. It was hot.

Sandstone cliffs around Wadi Rum

Riding off into the desert

The temple of Artemis in Jerash

Jerash is still a very active archaeological site. They were digging while visitors wandered through

The boys are off to conquer Jerash

A drain! Peter would be proud of me.



The round city square

Roman columns with the new city of Jerash in the background

Rodney's second cousin.
We stumbled on a music performance in the amphitheatre - with bagpipes, of course.

One of the two amphitheatres in Jerash

At the far end of the city, we came upon what looked like a Bollywood movie being filmed. We didn't dare go any closer - but there was definitely a glamorous actress in a bright sari, lots of loud music and a guy going through some dance moves. So if you ever see Roman ruins as a backdrop in some Bollywood movie... it could be Jerash!

Thanks for sharing our journey with us... till next time!

Petra

Petra will speak for itself, even though we will post only a few of the many picture we took. The southern Jordanian landscape of arid rolling hiss suddenly gives way to a convoluted lump of sandstone mountain, cobwebbed with wadis and canyons eaten away over millenia by water and wind. Inside those hills, the Nabateans carved a vast city from the sandstone in 600BC. The best-known part of Petra is the Treasury (of Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade fame), which is really a mausoleum.

The sandstone landscape that hides Petra. That's right - the ancient city of Petra sits within the mountains.

Looking over Petra (hidden in the sandstone hills) at dawn.

An early-morning herd on the streets of Wadi Musa, where Felix and I went for a walk before heading into Petra.

We embarked on our Petra adventure in the morning, hoping to avoid at least some of the heat. Before entering the city itself, there are tombs and small entrances carved into the hillsides. To reach the Treasury and the city of Petra beyond, there is a 2km walk through the Siq, a deep, narrow canyon carved into the stone by successive floods. The Nabateans harnessed the water with a dam and a channel that brought water all the way into the city.


Sandstone hills before the entrance.  
Nabatean soldiers guarding the entrance of the Siq.


Walking through the Siq.
Carvings on the walls of the Siq.

Felix finds a friendly feline.
  
Patterns carved into the sandstone by wind and water.

Channels built to direct rainwater into the city of Petra.

Hanging out in the Siq.

This first glimpse of the Treasury is awe-inspiring...







Beyond the Treasury, Petra is vast. There is a Roman amphitheatre, monumental tombs, the 'Wall of Facades', and over 900 steps to a monastery and a stunning view over the surrounding mountains. Everywhere, the sandstone has been shaped, by humans and nature, into beautiful shapes and amazing marbled patterns.
Tomb fit for a king.


The wall of facades

Sandstone striations

The Roman amphitheatre

Sandstone city


Artwork by human, fire and weather
A bedouin man and small boy selling trinkets and musical instruments in front of the ghost of an ancient building.



Nearly there... nonno climbs to the top in the searing desert heat.
The view is well worth the effort.  

In the end, the heat conquered us... and the boys got their long-awaited camel ride!